Spice Fusion

2 Mitre Terrace, Pwllheli, Gwynedd, LL53 5HE

A consistently impressive Indian Take Away that offers a good choice of traditional curry favourites alongside inventive ‘fusion’ dishes and ‘specialities’. Billed as “contemporary Indian cuisine” Spice Fusion produces well balanced flavours, from mild and fruity to hot and fiery, taking inspiration from regional Bangladeshi cookery. The food is prepared to order in an open kitchen where you can see the small team of chefs work. When busy they move about as if choreographed in an efficient dance to a rhythm of sizzle and clang. Recommended favourites that have withstood repeated ordering include the Chingri Jhul – ‘butterflied’ king prawns, part tail-on cooked in a fairly hot, but perfectly balanced sauce with some intriguingly exotic backflavours that are satisfyingly difficult to place (on the platter above); Chicken Bengal Taste – a dish that showcases some ‘typical’ Bengal flavours and textures, there is a deep backdrop of garlic and ginger, lightened by the tang of citrus and the aromatic airiness of fresh corriander… the meat is tender and marinaded and the urdall lentils are served still firm to provide a filling and multi-levelled meal (also above); Chicken Satkora – chicken (or lamb) cooked with the satkora fruit, traditionally grown in particular regions of Bangladesh, another aromatic and tangy taste that puts the lemon-lime citrus of the fruit to the fore, its sharpmness tempered by delicate spicing; the Shashlick is a Plate-Up ‘benchmark’ for Indian take aways and restaurants and this one certainly measures up, a perfectly cooked ‘kebab’ style skewer of chicken morsels, marinated in harmonious spices and grilled with onions and tomatoes, accomapnied by crisp salad and a mild masala to be added to taste.
The side dishes have also been good, with a perfect Bindi Bhaji – ‘green pea-pod’ freshness with great texture and no fibrous disappointment (above); Pakoras – chicken or vegetable are light enough to be starters and satisfying enough for a mini-meal for youngsters; the Nan breads are really good too – with the garlic one tasting as good as you may anticipate from its aroma… even the chips were very good.

Well, if reading these descriptions has whet your appetite, then all you have to do is get to Pwllheli and get your order (place one in advance on 01758 613712). Spice Fusion is open six evenings a week from 17:00 to 23:30 but closed on Tuesdays. It is part of the Gwynedd Spice Group which includes the Polash Bolti Restaurant, a few minutes walk away in Pwllheli town, so a good alternative on a Tuesday night or if you prefer dining out (28 Penlan Street, Pwllheli, Gwynedd, LL53 5DE. Telephone: 01758 613884) or if you are swayed by the endorsement of Ian Brown – yes Ian Brown of The Stone Roses.

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