Plate Up

Festive Food

2012-01-19T11:47:00.000-08:00

Despite the present era of austerity we managed a season of good cheer this Christmas. Some helpful bargains included a ham which was half price from Tesco; an oat fed goose breast was a bargain from Lidl, and a Turkey which was on offer from Asda.

Our celebratory meals started around the solstice and stretched into the New Year! They included roast turkey, roast pork, roast potatoes and parsnips, sprouts, cranberry sauce, stuffing and gravy. Mashed swede, carrots, roast goose and stuffing. A good gammon ham with sweet potatoes and Savoy cabbage. And of course lots of cold meats and pickles!

One of the best snacks we had was a wonderful bacon sandwich, using reduced bargains from the local Morrisons. Rashers fried very gently for a long time until the bacon fat rendered into robust crispiness, which contrasted with the soft flouriness of the industrial style white sliced bread, buttered liberally and covered with a healthy gloop of hp sauce. Not the healthiest, but Christmas is only once a year, and all generations can enjoy such fare. It is a nostalgic comfort food to a certain generation, reminding one of watching Morecambe and Wise Christmas specials curled up on a sheepskin rug in front of an electric bar fire!

A simple but well seasoned cold turkey and stuffing sandwich was also top of the list of simple pleasures, along with a Morrisons Pork pie and pickles . A pea and ham soup made with the leftover ham was also a tasty and warming supper.

Best condiments had to be Lidl Polish style in Brine gherkins, Opies pickled walnuts and Tracklements onion marmalade which were all great with cold meats.

We also had a variety of smoked salmons - Russian Japanese Scottish and Swedish. The Japanese had a wasabi edge, the Russian flavoured with beetroot, all were slightly varied in texture but delicious.

We enjoyed a good variety of red wines, a couple of cocktails, a little absinth and to see in the New Year we tried Bowmore Islay whisky – a delicate peat and fire edge to this single malt’s smoothness gave a warm glow

Our Christmas cake this year was also tasty – we used radio 4 woman’s hour perfect Christmas cake recipe from Ed Kimber the boy baker (substituting doves farm white spelt flour for plain flour)

http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio4/features/womans-hour/cooktheperfect/perfect/christmas-cake/

and considering it was only made three weeks in advance it tasted very good, moist and much lighter than more traditional Christmas cake recipes which involve treacle and dark brown sugar. We made a smidge of royal icing to cover the marzipan and give a rough snowfield finish – then our daughter furnished some miniature plastic robins and squirrels to give a woodsy festive touch!

The Christmas pudding was made to an Eliza Acton recipe, suitably updated. It was light and spicy and moist, delicious with a little cream.

Another seventies flashback included a classic birds trifle, complete with dream topping and hundreds and thousands – not very trendy but something wonderful for the six year olds in our lives (and the six year old deep inside) to experience! Christmas is meant to be kitsch after all…

May we wish Happy New Year to you all and let us hope 2012 brings lots of delicious discoveries!

Masterchef Live! London 2011

2011-12-06T22:16:00.000-08:00

We thoroughly enjoyed our visit to this year’s event! There seemed a much better layout, with the restaurant experience situated at the rear of the main hall. This allowed for a more relaxed dining experience.

We visited on the Sunday and managed to sample quite a selection of mains and puddings in a happy grazing fashion while listening to the live jazz.

The outstanding dishes to us were

Smiths of Smithfield slow roast belly of pork, green sauce and mash. The combination of fresh herb sauce, soft mash and tender meat was a winner and we hope to try out the recipe which was available as a leaflet.

From the Maze we sampled the jasmine and miso cured salmon, avocado, watermelon, radish and ponzu dressing. This was the most outstanding dish we tried. The salmon had a lovely texture, not quite sushi, delicate and different.
We also enjoyed their marinated beetroot, Doorstone organic goat’s curd, pine nuts, with Cabernet Sauvignion dressing. This combination was a delicious and refined vegetarian option.

From Gauthier Soho we tried black truffle risotto which was also outstanding, the creamy texture really showed off the dense mushroom-flavour of the black truffle oil.

From Blue Elephant the free range chicken curry with organic red and jasmine rice was tasty, especially accompanied by warm foie gras with tamarind sauce and Thai basil mash – the texture of the foie gras was really complemented by this combination.

Onto the puddings! The Wallace and Co chocolate mousse was really yummy, beautiful texture with a clean satisfying chocolate taste. Their sticky toffee pudding was lovely too. Phil Vickery’s chocolate brownie with kirsch cherries and whipped vanilla cream was also a winner with the chocoholics amongst us!

The other chocolate pudding we tried was Smiths of Smithfield’s chocolate pot, marshmallow cream and honeycomb. The marshmallow and honeycomb were tasty but the chocolate section proved immensely rich, too rich and sweet even for our young daughter to polish off! But then we had already sampled lots of tasty food beforehand…

The producers’ stands were all as helpful and generous as ever. We had tastings of lots of stuff!

The Rachel’s organic live yoghurts were great, flavours such as gooseberry rhubarb and blueberry as well as Greek honey and yoghurt were available at a special price four pots for £5 (came with free cool bag which was very thoughtful, as it was so much easier to carry home our purchases in good condition). Good to see a Welsh firm doing so well! The Snowdonian cheese company also seemed to be doing well, and offered an array of delicious cheese to taste including cranberry and garlic varieties.

We also made an order with James White, a Suffolk company, for free delivery of 12 bottles of their very delicious organic fruit and vegetable juices – their beetroot and apple juice is a star! These were delivered promptly a couple of days later.

We also sampled Christmassy tipples like toffoc (toffee vodka) and Sebor absinth (wow the real wormwood McCoy. Very grown up.)

The wine show, now based on the first floor, was a little more confusing. Some stands needed the purchase of an extra ticket for access, and the wonderful wines of Chile seemed absent, but we enjoyed meeting the producers of some excellent calvados, and sampled some fine M&S wines.

We watched some of the live invention tests and demonstrations taking place, caught glimpses of celebrities milling about or giving book signings. But mainly we spent the day sampling all the good food on offer, and it was heartening to find such a variety of good stuff from chillies and spices to cheeses and potted crab… A brilliant foodie day. More please for 2012!

Conway Food Festival 22-23 October 2011

2011-11-04T03:48:00.000-07:00

We made a brief visit to this local food festival on the Saturday afternoon and it was heartening to see it so busy. The festival consists of a number of local produce stalls, and an array of take away options (from Thai to hot dogs), along the main street and the harbour. The weather was fine enough to make it a pleasant stroll!

There are also marquees with further produce stalls that required paid admission (£7 per adult per day), but we did not have time to check these out. Seemed like a good place to pick up Christmas foodie ingredients or presents.

Other non food attractions included some live music, birds of prey which one could handle for a small fee, and art installations on display around the town as part of the Blinc festival, which culminated with a digital projection on the walls of Conway castle that evening.

We tried out some artisan goats cheese from gothi valley farm before we purchased a smooth soft log, and two mature cheeses that had the Roquefort penicillin, all very tasty indeed.

Food - Culture & History

2011-10-12T08:16:00.000-07:00

Food Stories is a resource on the British Library website intended for school and college students learning about citizenship and geography. It has lots of fascinating information in 'bite-sized' portions about the cultural history of the UK as told by our changing eating habits. As would be expected from the British Library, this is a well-researched intreactive resource that is of interest to anyone with an interest in food beyond, "What's for dinner?"

Click on the illustration above to go and have a learn...

Eat Crete

2011-09-12T10:13:00.000-07:00

We managed a family holiday to Crete this year, our first time in Greece. It was relaxed friendly and hot! Apart from lapping up the culture at Knossoss and admiring Minoan artefacts at the Hiraklion museum, we swam, chilled and thoroughly enjoyed the food.

It still amazes to discover the abundance of fresh produce after our iffy British summer. To see oranges, lemons, limes, tomatoes and grapes all coming into fruit in the fields or gardens as well of course as the olive trees (we visited one which is nearly 3,000 years old) – one can understand how Elizabeth David was inspired after visiting the Mediterranean.

We stayed at Hotel Thelassi just east of Rethymnon, clean and spacious with an excellent taverna where we could eat our evening meal watching the sun set over the Meditteranean. The food was generous and to a high standard for three star half board. It was a treat to have a plate of tomatoes dribbled over with olive oil, a boiled egg and a little cheese and ham, a couple of olives with a mug of mellow coffee. Followed by, of course, by a bowl of Greek yoghurt and honey which was really delicious. (We passed an official Fage distribution depot while touring the island and it’s available in large family tubs in supermarkets – there were also adverts for a strawberry fruit corner version, yum). The honey was very golden, drippy, mellow-sweet and the perfect accompaniment for the yoghurt at breakfast time.

The evening meals were soups (tomato and the asparagus were our favourites) a range of local classics like beef stafado followed by light patisserie or ice cream and watermelon offered as pudding.

The Feta cheese was also looked great – also available in large sizes at the supermarket, along with catering style tins of olive oil. Other local produce in abundance right now was watermelon, plentiful and cheap, tasty and a good way to keep hydrated. We sampled a couple of really delicious fresh juices too, melon juice and orange juice which was squeezed from oranges plucked from the taverna owner’s garden moments before.

The taverna food was wonderful. On our run to the south coast the Preveli Taverna attracted us because a separate outhouse in the front garden housed the woodfire grill were succulent lamb was being slow cooked. The pork soudakis (kebabs) we ate there were delicious.

We also visited the restaurant attached to the botanical gardens of Crete, which involved a run out into the mountains and a climb up some hairpin bends. The view was well worth it! There was wonderful local fauna - crickets bees butterflies and lizards - to spot from the balcony and the specialist vegetarian food was tasty, although the highlight was a selection of fresh fruits picked from the gardens that day. This included plums, oranges, an unusual small fruit which tasted a little like a lychee and wonderful fresh figs. The skins of the figs were unexpectedly crisp, the flesh sweet and dark pink, and they tasted light and fragrant - so exotic for us British, used to the squishy slightly disappointing version of a fresh fig we get at home.

The fresh fish on offer also looked splendid, calamari and red mullet and plaice, plus sea bass all arranged on crushed ice at a local fishmongers – no wonder Crete can claim to have one of the healthiest diets in the world!

Hoping to continue with some of the good eating now we are home…

Porthmadog Producers Market

2011-09-12T10:01:00.000-07:00

Finally made it to our most local producers market, and will definitely shop there again. It happens every last Saturday of the month, usually at the Canolfan (community centre right next to the tourist office Porthmadog high street, on the banks of avon glaslyn). It starts around 9am and peters out around 2pm (unless its rainy and the stallholders linger for extra trade.)
The produce on offer ranges from fresh organic crops (we chose spinach and blackcurrants which were absolutely delicious) to local fresh fish, pork and pork products. There are great specialities such as olives and olive oils, absolutely top notch, and the local smokery products – great kippers and smoked meats and even smoked cheese available to taste and try!
There are also a range of wonderful bara brith, welshcakes, cupcakes, preserves, chocolates and truffles to sample – great treats while on holiday or to take home as souvenirs.
All the producers selling are really friendly and happy to talk about their wares. A really enjoyable foodie experience so if you are in the area do check it out yourself.

Masterchef Final and Books

2011-07-18T11:11:00.000-07:00

Master Chef final
I have to say a little more about the Master Chef final because we have only just managed to watch the very last episode, partly due to busy-ness (here in the Mountains things take on a different pace when the warm weather returns) and partly due to saving it to savour, like the last cookie in the jar! If you still have it to enjoy, please be warned - we do mention who wins...
The final three parter was an absolutely fantastic standard, from Australia to New York the gastro experiences were top notch – cooking bush tucker, cooking for John Torode’s friends and family, cooking for a wedding what wonderful contrasts ! Then to go to the pinnacle New York restaurant reflecting their personal tastes, must have been culinary heaven for the contestants
It was interesting in the final part to actually get a little more in depth information about the three contestants as they cooked their socks off in the final round. It was hard to remember that these were talented amateurs and not professionals as they set about creating keynote dishes that excelled their previous creations. Greg and John were clearly overcome by the quality of the food they were offered, and could find little to fault and much to savour. But it clearly went to Bruno, the person who worked on an amazing combination of east west fusion dishes to great effect and what a trio of puddings too! It was touching to see how little ego was involved when the winner was announced, and it is certain all three would have a future in professional cooking after this…

If like me you are feeling some withdrawal symptoms the Master Chef books may offer some compensation.

The original Masterchef cookbook contains 250 recipes from the series with master tips included throughout. It is a great coffee table book too, well presented with stylish photos and yes there are quite a few pages involving rack of lamb dishes! Good introductions from John Torode and Greg Wallace make you want to enter the competition one day…maybe

Masterchef at Home is the more recent publication and contains a further 200 recipes. This again is an attractive and inspiring book to leaf through, with double page spreads on finalists’ menus, and some great step by step master class tips from Monica Galeti too. Full of interesting taste tips and practical suggestions, I think I prefer this latest book (like the series they just keep improving...).

The Plate Up British Beer Play-Off - Round 2: Cwrw Cymru!

2011-05-22T05:24:00.000-07:00

Cwrw Mel Conwy Honey Fayre

A very lively beer – even when poured with great care the head is irrepressible, topping a misty sunset amber glow with a pleasing foamy ‘cloud’… The honey is mainly in the aroma that is also rich with malt and hops. The flavour is surprisingly well balanced and clean with a soft summer lightness leading you along into a deep middle palette satisfaction which finished well with very little bitterness. This will convert you to bottle-conditioned ales... Head (and shoulders) above many rivals.

Brewed to celebrate the annual institition that is the Conwy Honey Fair.

Bragdy'r Gogarth - Orme

A nice tingle of freshness on the tongue tip with gentle bubbles and a full soft texture giving a deep burnt molasses richness of malt on the mid palette. There is a bitter finish at the back of the tongue, but off-set with a little sweetness reminiscent of malt loaf. Its deep orange brown looks a bit toffee-coloured and even after a sweet desert it holds it own with the matching toffee notes in its flavour that gives enough sweetness and a lingering finish. Perhaps not best suited to warm summer evening, but would make a top notch winter beer and a great festive choice.

Double Dragon

Proclaiming to be the "national ales of Wales", this is a golden coloured, refreshing beer that is as versatile as a lager, but with a bit more character, with a nicely dry finish. A great all-rounder from the Felinfoel brewery, and very drinkable.

The Rev James

From the Brains brewery, this is an Almost a definitive brown ale: deep colour and flavour with a lovely pear-drop lightness. There is ‘metal’ in the aroma though the flavour is rich and malty with just enough edge to balance the velvety roundness. There is a crispness along with a softer and satisfying spicing that hints of mince pies. This would work on a hot day in the beer garden and also as a winter warmer. Impressive.

AND THE WINNER IS…

Conwy Honey Fayre – or it just could be… Orme? Well one of those two! Both are exceptional beers… for a warm summer evening then perhaps Conwy has the edge… then again perhaps Orme. This definitely needs further testing! One thing that is clear from this round of the Plate Up Play-Offs is that there are some truly great beers being produced in Wales.

Websites: Bragdy Conwy, Bragdy'r Gogarth / Great Orme Brewery, Felinfoel / Double Dragon, Brain's Rev. James

More Masterchef!

2011-05-01T04:09:00.000-07:00

Masterchef Lives...

Now that the latest series of Masterchef has aired it seems appropriate to mention the fun we had at the Masterchef Live show in November last year. We enjoyed watching some of the invention tests taking part in the arena, and the lovely impromptu moments such as Greg Wallace pecking John Torode on the cheek as a thank you for adjusting his mic!
The tasting menu was interesting and varied – we tried and enjoyed a classic roast pork dish (slow roast belly of pork, green sauce and mash) from the Luxe (John Torode), corn-fed chicken green curry from Blue Elephant, and wanted to try Lisa Faulkner’s rhubarb crumble and custard but it proved so popular that it soon ran out! The servings were heartier than those at last year’s dining experience and it seemed easier to get a seat this time, making it a more enjoyable event and better showcasing the food.

The Wines of Chile stall was also a particular favourite of ours, lots of lovely rich reds to sample, lots of intelligent and helpful staff to explain what you were tasting. There was an array of interesting spirits on offer also, including an independent London gin from Sipsmith which was distinctive aromatic and ethereal.

The food on offer at the stalls was all interesting too. Our favourite purchases were the Sweet Freedom syrup (fruit based, healthy but tasty sugar alternative) Rude Health spelt flakes, Pixley Berries blackcurrant cordial (our daughter loves this), Spanish cheese and hams, chilli sauces ...but the list could go on.

A great all out foodie event on the run up to Yuletide - hope to go again next year!
It was good to see Masterchef, practically an institution of reality TV cookery, back on our screens and willing to change its formula to push the boundaries a little. It helps to keep it ahead of the recent launch of similar TV programs (Cookery School and Britain’s Best Dish spring to mind).

Greg and John are marvellous hosts and it’s great to watch contestants’ reactions, shocked and delighted in turn at the challenges they pull out of the bag. One of my favourite recent episodes was when guru-chef Yotam Ottolenghi simply ‘turned up’ to inspire them to cook vegetarian dishes with a new fresh twist – following which they had to cater for a circus pitching at Peckham Rye (Greg’s old stomping ground)… and of course, the final three…

Masterchef is my favourite ‘soap’ – lots of drama, character development and human interest, though less violent and much more uplifting than Eastenders! It renews my enthusiasm to get into the kitchen and try a new recipe or create a little something special for dinner. I guess the switch of the franchise to the BBC1 prime-time slot reflects the fact that lots of people feel the same.

http://www.londonbbcgoodfoodshow.com/home

Spice Bank

2011-04-15T07:06:00.000-07:00

"You can bank on a good meal..."
The Old Bank Building, High street, Criccieth, Gwynedd, LL52 0BS

+

The environment is very distinguished, being a converted bank as the name suggests, with a wood panelled high ceilinged interior that gives an atmosphere of space whilst retaining intimacy for each table. The service was efficient, welcoming and relaxed, even when busy. The spicing was assertive, yet very well balanced rendering the food its own distinctive style…

The staff were very enthusiastic in their welcome for our party of seven and treated our six-year-old with thoughtful respect, suggesting sauces for the dipping of chicken pakora’s that might cool and slightly sweeten them. It did the trick and the plate was cleared with relish, the meal being proclaimed “delicious”.

Amongst other dishes sampled were: Chingry Jhul – a favourite order from the Spice Fusion (also a member pf the Gwynedd Spice Group) take-away in Pwllheli, so comparison could not be avoided. This one was richer and more ‘solid’ with some long thin chillies that had the fresh greenness of a french bean, on first bite, and then a very fiery finish. In comparison, I think the Spice Fusion had ‘the edge’, but this certainly did the job on the night and could be considered faultless in its textures and spicing, just a different style… The Chicken Jaflong was also a ‘top choice’ - marinated chicken chunks with overt peppers and coriander notes in a complex and heavy sauce.

Something special, as would be expected from a member of the Gwynedd Spice Group, the meal resulted in a good spice ‘high’ all round. The bill was also, high. This is not a cheap’n’cheerful option for a quick meal out, but is ideal for celebrations and special occasions. The music, whilst giving a nice atmosphere and encouraging chat, also makes it difficult to talk to anyone in a large party that is not directly opposite or to your side. So perfect for anniversaries and such, but not ideal for large party-type gatherings (perhaps this is an intention of the management).

Reservation can be made by phoning: 01766 522277 or 01766 523008. More info and sample menu at their website... Note: it mentions 'Take Away' orders, but at present they do not provide a take away service, only 'sit down meals'. On Sundays, they do offer an extremely good value buffet…

The Plate Up Chocolate Play-Off - Round1

2011-02-13T07:56:00.000-08:00

Chocolate love

In the run up to Valentine’s Day, one naturally thinks of love… and chocolate.
Chocolate is the ultimate romantic food and releases those feel-good endorphins that revive the senses, particularly during a cold, dark winter!

It is also claimed to have some health benefits – eating chocolate can ease a sore throat, as well as lift your mood. It might also reduce your risk of a heart attack: see this article at Science Daily, for some research facts suggesting that chocolate in moderation is good for you.

So the good news is that chocolate itself is beneficial, you just have to take care with the accompanying sugar and calories. Moderation is best, which is an excuse to indulge in the most expensive chocolate you can afford – it’s quality, not quantity, that counts and usually the higher the percentage of cocoa solids the better!

The “Best Chocolate in the World” is reputed to be Amadei Chuao or Valrhona Grands Crus, or perhaps an artisanal product, such as from Pierre Hermé (the Picasso of Pastry according to Vogue). Unfortunately those tend to be relatively expensive and difficult to find in the local Spar (unless yours is a particularly gourmet branch).

Having said that there are less expensive, accessible and highly enjoyable chocolate bars out there. Here are a few from the High Street that we have tested for choco bliss….
Seeds of Change organic dark chocolate 70% cocoa
This is smooth and tastes really good – a definite hint of cherry-berriness which is more-ish! Follows a policy of assisting sustainable cocoa farming which maintains biodiversity.

Green and Blacks 85%
Good for cooking, also quite velvety and satisfying eaten straight, although there is more hint of acidity than the seeds of change.

Lidl JD Gross Arriba Superior 81% premium cocoa
This chocolate is very solid, hard to melt in the mouth and has a banana-esters flavour in there somewhere. Not the best on texture - kind of powdery but distinctive taste

Tesco 74% cocoa ivory coast plain chocolate
This melted in the mouth like satin and was the most chocolate-y! Much less bitter, a red wine overtone made this very satisfying – impressive.

Green and Blacks 70%
This is definitely best for cooking, hard with almost a sugar burn. There were edges of coffee, vanilla, a definite burst of sweetness. Probably best for putting in the chocolate brownies; the least satisfying to sample straight.

Co-operative truly irresistible Fair-trade dark chocolate 85% cocoa
Solid, hard to bite, but soon melts in mouth to reveal voluptuous chocolate cherry sourness overtones. Very impressive and good to know it’s Fair-trade! Available in large and handier 40g sizes, so one to slip into the handbag/rucksack.

It was great to have the luxury of trying each in turn and discovering how different they were. It’s definitely worth seeking out your favourite to suit your own particular taste, or occasion, just like coffee, red wine, or whisky!

The Plate up crew finally came up with this order:

First
Tesco 74% Ivory Coast chocolate
Because it is just sooo chocolaty! The one to keep in the kitchen drawer to piggle while cooking.

Second
Seeds of Change organic dark chocolate 70%
This is smooth and more-ish and we want a bar in the fridge at all times

Third
Cooperative Fair-trade 85% Cocoa
Great to have on the go for that ultimate chocolate boost – one square at a time is enough and so much healthier than snaffling a whole milk chocolate bar!

Fourth
Green and Blacks 85%
Interesting, satisfying but not quite as palatable as those above – great for cooking.

Fifth
JD Gross 81%
Also interesting but more for cooking than savouring neat, we thought, because of the powdery texture.

Sixth
Green and Blacks 70%
Definitely one for cooking with; would be great combined with ingredients. Eaten straight it’s just a little too much burn on the throat to be altogether pleasant.

Perhaps the final three are useful to have as the emergency backup, for when there is no more chocolate in the house and snowdrifts stop you going down the shops. You can cook up some brownies or enjoy a square or two melted in the microwave and use apple slices to dip!

Looking forward to a chocolate confection play-off in the future...

Coed Y Brenin Venison Burgers

2011-01-22T16:41:00.000-08:00

“Not too dear for deer for two, dear…”

Coed Y Brenin Visitors Centre, LL40 2HZ

Coed Y Brenin is a spectacular forest park that used to be part of the vast Nannau Estate and is an ideal day out, or stopping place between Dolgellau and Porthmadog. It is world-famous for its mountain biking trails, rare flora and fauna – including a managed population of wild deer, both fallow and roe - and two of the tallest trees in the region. It has something for everyone: some of the woodland walks are wheelchair accessible, there are play areas for toddlers and youngsters, nature trails with accompanying MP3 guides, regular events, kids clubs, and a visitors centre with shop and café.
The café is situated in a eco-friendly, low-impact building that commands fine views over the valley down towards the river. There you can enjoy a good selection of snacks and light lunches in a relaxed and family-friendly atmosphere. Highly recommended are the Coed Y Brenin venison burgers, which can be enjoyed on the open air balcony overlooking the land where the deer have enjoyed freedom in their natural habitat. The deer are fairly numerous and we have sometimes seen them cross the main roads and often seen small groups running together through the woodland alongside the quieter tracks. Venison is very tasty, tender and much better for your health than most comparative red meats – it is lower in fat than skinless chicken breast, contains good levels of omega 3 oils, is low in cholesterol, and wild venison is free range and so free from ‘additives’ like hormones and antibiotics. Venison is more consistent that beef and always delivers flavour and a tender-yet-satisfying texture. The burgers are generous in their meat content, made-to-order and served along with cheese, and a bacon rasher, in a perfectly suited floury bun. There is also a crisp green side salad with fresh onion, sweetcorn and some good quality coleslaw. Value for money at around six pounds (who has not, in their foolish youth spent that much in a fast food burger ‘joint’ and come away still hungry?) and can be accompanied by a very satisfying, freshly brewed coffee. We had two burgers between two adults and a five-year-old... and we were well fed on that! Half portions of most of the meals are also available, at half price, in place of a 'kids menu', but due to cooking logistics, the venison burgers are a 'one size fits all' dish.

The Coed Y Brenin visitors centre café would be an excellent place to stop for a coffee and cake or light lunch, but the (fair priced) parking fee may be prohibiting it catching on as such. It would be worth getting on your bike - if that sort of thing suits you - and there is a regular bus service that swings right by the centre’s dedicated bus stop. Opening hours are 09:30 - 17:00 daily (you can double check on 01341 440747 as hours may vary off-season or during severe weather).

...more info at their Forestry Commission website...

Rhuthun Craft Centre Cafe

2011-01-09T19:07:00.000-08:00

The Craft Of Cakes
Ruthin Craft Centre, Park Road, Ruthin, Denbighshire, LL15 1BB

If you can find Rhuthun (Ruthin), you can find the craft centre. It is off the ‘main’ roundabout and brown signed from the town centre, right opposite the big Tesco. If you just want a quick sandwich or wrap, then there you go: Tesco superstore. If you would like a quality, individually prepared-to-order light lunch, then the craft centre café is a satisfying solution. After browsing the galleries - with what have been impeccably selected exhibitions lately - and craft shop, a civilized chat over coffee and cake in the ‘modern’ surroundings of the café rounds things off nicely. You can eat in the designer-ish cafe, with black and white photography on the walls, or on a nice day sit out on the terrace. In itself, the food is worth a visit if you are in the area and although it may appear a little more costly than snacks from the superstore, you do get what you pay for.

Good value option is the soup and a sandwich deal: freshly made sandwiches on bread of your choice served with the soup of the day for £5.75. The broccoli and stilton soup with (free range) egg mayonnaise sandwich and side salad is pictured here and was really good. The soup was delicious and warming with good texture and creamy flavour, and the fresh (granary) bread of the sandwich was generously filled. The coffee was a crowd-pleasing blend that went down smooth, served black. Colleagues also went for the soup and sandwich combo, one with ham and the other with Welsh farmhouse cheese – both devoured them with obvious relish and enjoyed refreshing pots of tea. On previous visits the carrot cake, chocolate sponges and cheesecakes have all been of very good quality – making cakes a craft in their own right!

Check out their website for more info...

Conwy Honey

2010-10-26T07:22:00.000-07:00

Streets of gold...

Last weekend (23-24 October) Conwy’s Food Festival took place, showcasing local produce and incorporating workshops around the town. This is always worth a visit. But of more historical interest is the Conwy Honey Fair.
This 700-year-old street market takes place annually on 13 September and is traditionally where local beekeepers sell their summer produce. It dates from a charter granted by Edward I and on this day stalls are free for local beekeepers to sell honey, plus other products such as beeswax candles, within the town walls. Fruit, vegetables, and plants are also sold but the jars of honey predominate – as much as a tonne of honey can be sold by lunchtime! The going rate this year was £5 for a pound in weight of honey.

There was a wide variety available. Most beekeepers can tell you where their hives were situated and what blossom they visited when laying down the honey. This can range from hawthorn (traditionally the best) to heather (thick and bubbly in texture, distinctive in taste) or Himalayan Balsalm (viewed as a pest but yields citrus tinged honey; when the weather was bad it sustained some hives) and some hives even visited rare flowers amongst sand dunes and their surrounding area at Newborough on Anglesey.

Most stalls offer tastings so it’s a treat for a honey connoisseur – and it is fun to see the odd bee circling an open jar as if in approval of the quality! The chairman of the local beekeepers association was available for a chat or advice and his honey was selling as fast as it could be unloaded (sales limited to two jars per person) so we are looking forward to tasting it. Look out for a Plate Up Honey play-off in the future!

For more about local beekeeping, honey and recipes visit the Conwy Beekeepers' homepage ...

Blas Dolgellau : Taste Dolgellau

2010-10-11T05:59:00.000-07:00

Click on the image above to go to the website for the Festival.

The website does not give much info, but there should be some food-related fun going on this weekend...

Harlech Tandoori

2010-09-27T14:43:00.000-07:00

Castle Court, High Street, Harlech, Gwynedd, LL46 2YE

The approach to the Castle Court from Harlech High Street, presents a great view down over the coastal plain with the mountains beyond… as the street begins to drop down, you find a neon ‘open’ sign and a door that looks like it will lead into some kind of secret casino, gentleman’s private club or an after hours drinking den… behind the door, you find yourself in a small atrium… and on opening the second door, you are met with a warm and relaxed welcome into the quirky interior that is the Harlech Tandoori. It is a small ‘basement’ room with a suitably stocked corner bar and bright orange décor that manages to be both in conflict with, and strangely harmonious with, the areas of exposed random granite stonework.
The place has its own style and character, and y’know, so does the menu. Whether you eat in and enjoy the pleasant, intimate and relaxed atmosphere, or take away with a discount, you will find an array of enjoyable dishes with some unusual ones amongst them that you do not find in every curry house… such as the Desi Delight, shown above: a beautifully balanced dish with sweetness and mild spicing, off-set with fantastically flavoured dried and roasted chillies that have a biscuit-like crunch and a toasty, moderate heat. The rich subtle sauce pulls all the textures and flavours together, the soft and sweet onions, the green pepper, chunks of tender chicken and a whole hard-boiled egg that has been fried to give it an extra surface texture – unusual and delightful, indeed.
The Chicken Shashlik is a subtle and lightly spiced version of this classic, with large tender chunks of mildly spiced, marinated chicken ‘barbequed’ with onion and peppers, served with a fresh green shredded salad. Consistently satisfying and the ‘fall-back’ order if you just cannot make up your mind. There is also a Tandoori Mix, if you want a bit of variety on one platter.
We have also enjoyed the Chicken Pakoras (above: generous chunks of chicken tikka coated in a light but very crunchy batter), Dhals, generous Thalis (both vegetable and meat) and always the fresh baked Nans (below: a Garlic Nan landscape).
The Harlech Tandoori's style of cooking takes most of its inspiration from Bangladeshi cuisine and you can expect well-balanced, yet full-flavoured dishes that are satisfing and ‘sit well’ after the event, with no feeling of heaviness or bloat. Check out their website for more info and a sample menu. To make a reservation or place a take-away order phone: 01766 781 306.

The Plate Up Chilli Sauce Play-Off - Round 2

2010-09-24T14:19:00.000-07:00

Nando’s Extra Hot Peri-Peri Sauce
“So hot they named it twice”
First a citrus sharpness that is very very quickly followed by the glow of chilli embers that soon flare up into full tongue-tingling intensity. It has that ‘back-of-the-nose-oh-I’m-gonna-sneeze’ heat more often experienced with hot mustards and wasabi. The distinctive African flavours are certainly going on here and this would do well with chicken and white fish – a thin coating before roasting or grilling and it would work like a jerk. Even the deep ruddy orange colour conjures up African exotica and the ‘red-earth’ desert heat… Sauces based on this chilli (an African 'bird's eye') have become a distinctive component of Portuguese cookery, particularly the Peri-Peri chicken dish that is a major influence on Nando's.

Trees Can’t Dance Flaming Lips Hot Sauce
“I’ve seen trees dance…”
Well, this is a surprise. A pleasant one. Absolutely no holding back on the heat, but bags of other flavours working together – most prominently roast garlic and fruit. The sharpness comes from red wine and sherry vinegars that bring their own subtleties and contribute to the fruit. The rest of the fruitiness comes from the bell peppers that must have been all ripe and full and fleshy. A good dark, earth-tone colour flecked with chilli seeds and fragments of garlic and herbs … and they are not lying about the flaming lips sensation. It’s sensational!

If you can take the heat, this would work as a great straight dipping sauce, but for most tastes it would need to be mixed with some nice creamy Greek strained yogurt (or mayonnaise, or ketchup, etc) and it is spectacular on chips!

Cholula Hot Sauce
“Arriba! Arriba!”
Mexic-Oh-Yeah… This is the one! The fruitiness is the first thing that hits you and then there is a lovely transition into the full flavour of chillies, finely balance between the arbol and piquin, leading up to the heat that smoulders outward from the mid-palate. Oh, yes it is hot, but the flavour is so well crafted with the sweetness and sharpness off-setting the burn that you want to take it straight for the spoon, though the building heat stops you… The flavours are all presented confidently and distinctly, working together to give a satisfying array, though never detract from the primary flavour of chilli.

Versatile enough to be used and a condiment or ingredient, this would go great with anything vaguely Tex-Mex. The colour is a lovely deep warm orange and looks so attractive in the bottle with its wooden cap.

Frank’s Red Hot Original
“Tastes like an original, it does.”
Nice and assured, this is a sauce ‘in-the-style-of’ Tabasco ® and has a similar matured chilli flavour underpinned with salt’n’vinegar. This one would be very versatile and could be used in marinades and sauces, added to chilli con carne just before serving to lift the chilli flavours, and another one that is great on chips!

A classic that was famously used in the spicing for the original Buffalo Wings – so called because the recipe for coating deep-fried chicken wings was first used in Buffalo NY.
A very satisfying and fairly straight forward, yet well-balanced, sauce with a fine deep sunset colour and warmth to match…

AND THE WINNER IS…

…if you haven’t already guessed… Cholula. This was a tough Play-Off because all four were very good indeed, but one has won and it is the Mexican celebration of chilli, Cholula: such a well-crafted and balanced sauce that is fresh and fruity and flavoursome enough to perform in many and varied culinary situations, making it another challenger for the Tabasco ® range, without being a ‘clone’…

Having said that, the Trees Can’t Dance was a close runner-up and had a wonderful range of flavours whilst delivering spectacular heat. Whilst it is great straight and for dips, its robust fruit and roast garlic make it too distinctive for general uses as it would easily dominate almost any dish, but certainly one to have in the pantry.

Websites: Nando's , Trees Can't Dance , Cholula , Frank's Red Hot

Silver Spoon

2010-09-19T07:46:00.000-07:00

The Silver Spoon Cookbook
Phaidon, 2005, ISBN 0 7148 4467 5

This is a great classic Italian cookbook which is over 50 years old. It is packed with over 2,000 tried and trusted recipes and this is its first English translation. There is a clear no-fuss approach to how the recipes are written – usually only a short paragraph each – which is refreshing and time saving if you are after inspiration fast! It is usually my first port of call for advice on how to blend disparate ingredients found in fridge and storecupboard into a tasty family meal. It’s almost like having an Italian grandmother at hand to tell you how to cook. From the basics (tuna spaghetti, cucumber salad, béchamel sauce) through to more sophisticated dishes and deserts, it’s all here. This reassuringly thick book is a true kitchen bible.

Click here for a beautiful overview of the book.

The Plate Up British Beer Play-Off - Round 1

2010-09-18T14:31:00.000-07:00

Fursty Ferret

"Likable and Lickable"

Brewed by Badger (Hall & Woodhouse), who are consistently reliable for quality beers, their gorgeous Golden Champion being one of the top summer ales you can get hold of, from many pubs and mainstream vendors. Fursty Ferret is a ‘replica’ of an original cask beer that used to fall short of demand every year. Legend has it that ferrets used to sneak into the inn after hours to lick up the drips under the keg taps, and if I was a ferret… The original recipe has since been adapted to retain its original character, yet survive the commerical bottling process and become widely available. This is a refreshing, crisp ale with a nice balance of hops and malt and a light sweetness. It said on the label to expect an aroma of Seville oranges, and there certainly is a central flavour of citrus, but more like lemons. It is reminiscent of a 'lager-top' and as easily drinkable. This would be a fine beer for a warm midsummer’s evening.

Combined Harvest

"A cracking combination..."

In some respects this has a similar style to the Fursty Ferret, though is much more complex whilst remaining perfectly calibrated. It too has a fine balance between the spicy hint of hops and the maltiness that gives it a full, soft texture. There is citrus here as well and a deeper honey note countered by an aromatic fruitiness of pear-drops. It has a tongue tip freshness, backed up with a deep and rich mid-palate giving way to a slight bitter edge that acts as a full stop to the composition. There are subtleties along the way and the character develops and changes its bias with each mouthful. It responds well to food and could just as easily accompany rich dishes, such as roasts and grills, as it could go with crisp salads and light snacks. This has won a couple of top medals at festivals and there will be not argument with the judges here! A distinctive and well-crafted pale ale from Batemans that combines four grains – malted barley, malted oats, malted rye, and malted wheat to cleverly give a malti-dimensional flavour that ranges from floral and fruit to honey and a little pepper, and then back again.

Hobgoblin

"Y'know, I can taste something!"

Dark with a rich ruby hue. A bold beer with a satisfyingly deep flavour that first presents you with toasty molasses, then gives over to a lighter layer of flavour that has almost a citrus tang, though not really sweet, more like biting into orange peel. It leaves an almost dry, bitter finish on the sides of the tongue - like good dark chocolate can - and this immediately prompts you to take another gulp. Hobgoblin is one of the family of ‘craft-brewed’ beers from Wychwood. This tastes like a real ale should, and for a bottled beer that is fairly widely distributed, it is more like somthing you would be happy to discover in an olde country pub and would go with anything you may associate with good pub grub such as pie and mash, roats vegetables, barbeque meats... There is colour, texture, lots of taste, character and all for a fair price.

Ochr Tywyll Y Mws (Dark Side Of The Moose)

"Going flat-out for it"

Hold it up to the light and its rich colour builds some anticipation. It glows with a nice golden brown, like old leather… and it tastes, OK. It is a brown ale and similar in style to Hobgoblin, though much flatter in flavour and actually, pretty flat, with a head that persists for a moment or two before leaving the glass bereft of any sparkle whatsoever. We sampled it before, during and after a spicy king prawn rogan. It performed best alongside the food and seemed to crisp up its flavours as the meal progressed. It tastes like a good homebrew and this is not surprising as it is produced by Bragdy Mws Piws (Purple Moose Brewery) an independent microbrewery based in Porthmadog. It has won quite a few top medals at UK beer festivals and was given the ‘Beer Of The Festival 2007’ by CAMRA at Cambridge. We have tried all four of their regular label brews and although the flavours are not complex, they do have individual character, though there is little or no sparkle to assist the flavours onto the tongue. We have also sampled this one on draught at The George, in Dolgellau, and at the time this seemed superior to the bottled – there may even have been a few bubbles – though the warm day, cool beer and lovely view of the Mawddach estuary may have embelished the experience. All in all, not a bad drink, so long as you do not mind flat beer.

AND THE WINNER IS…

Well, this particular round of the Plate Up British Beer Play-Off took place on a fairly mild late summer afternoon, had it been on a chilly winter’s evening, then it might have turned out differrently with Hobgoblin being an ideal ‘winter-warmer’… but as it stands, Combined Harvest was neck and shoulder above the rest with its unique and sophisticated layering of flavours and textures.

Websites: Badger Ales , Batemans , Wychwood , Bragdy Mws Piws

Dragon's Rest 'Diner'

2010-08-19T09:56:00.000-07:00

Caerwys Junction (J31) off A55, near Holywell, Flintshire

The Dragon’s Rest café is an excellent alternative to the MacDonalds which is more visible from the road. It shares its lot with a caravan and camping supplies warehouse, but inside is a different world… A large red dragon sign welcomes you into the idiosyncratic interior, dotted with various models of Draig Coch Cymru around the restaurant along with some film and TV memorabilia and the odd original painting here and there.

The day’s specials are usually good value roasts, listed alongside the usual diner menu of gammon-egg-and-chips, generously filled jacket potatoes, and so on, but the all day breakfast is highly recommended: Two rashers of good, fairly thick and unshrunk bacon, very fresh poached egg, a hash brown with that ‘home made’ texture, beans, tomatoes, a classic thick sausage, and a round of toast. This was an effective restorative along with refreshing tea served in a white china pot, which easily delivers three cups. A great pit stop for travellers, or breakfast for campers at nearby caravan or tent sites! It may seem busy and full, but places will be found for you after a short wait and then service is methodical and swift.

The children’s menu is also good value and includes the expected sausage breakfast, chicken nuggets, and so on, with a choice of accompaniments including favourites like beans, chips, peas, smiley faces.

Garlic Fantastic!

2010-06-12T16:40:00.000-07:00

Unless you happen to have an absolutley top-notch market nearby that supplies fresh and good quality garlic or you can easily get to the See Woo, then you are very unlikely to find garlic to beat the bulbs in the Delfanti garlic basket from Lidl!
This is easily the best generally available garlic. Once peeled, the flavour, texture and aroma are close to ‘wet’ garlic, and they are unusual in that each bulb is just one big clove, no segments, so it is simple to skin and slice. Baked alongside a roast in its skin (for about 15 - 20 minutes or so) this garllic turns almost sweet and buttery whilst retaining its fresh tang… True garlic lovers can enjoy it raw, because, although it certainly has pungent power, it is fresh and juicy enough to deliver bags (or baskets) of flavour without too much ‘burn’ and no bitter edge at all. This makes it perfect for stir-frying as it only requires a flash-cook to soften its flavour and bring out the fantastic aroma. Although the brand is Italian, the Garlic is genuine Chinese produce and this shows through when used in oriental-style recipes. Also ideal for fine grating in salad dressings and mayonnaise. Smell it, peel it, slice it, crush it, dice it, roast it, eat it, love it... because garlic is good for you:

Garlic is thought to be one of the important components that makes the 'mediterranean diet' so healthy. It reputedly lowers cholesterol, supresses harmful bacteria in the digestive tract, contains antioxidants, repells insects and can even be used as an ingredient in a herbal antibiotic ointment... These benefits are attributed to two substances that occur in the garlic bulb: aliin and daillyl sulphides.

Spice Fusion

2010-06-02T16:12:00.000-07:00

2 Mitre Terrace, Pwllheli, Gwynedd, LL53 5HE

A consistently impressive Indian Take Away that offers a good choice of traditional curry favourites alongside inventive ‘fusion’ dishes and ‘specialities’. Billed as “contemporary Indian cuisine” Spice Fusion produces well balanced flavours, from mild and fruity to hot and fiery, taking inspiration from regional Bangladeshi cookery. The food is prepared to order in an open kitchen where you can see the small team of chefs work. When busy they move about as if choreographed in an efficient dance to a rhythm of sizzle and clang. Recommended favourites that have withstood repeated ordering include the Chingri Jhul – ‘butterflied’ king prawns, part tail-on cooked in a fairly hot, but perfectly balanced sauce with some intriguingly exotic backflavours that are satisfyingly difficult to place (on the platter above); Chicken Bengal Taste – a dish that showcases some ‘typical’ Bengal flavours and textures, there is a deep backdrop of garlic and ginger, lightened by the tang of citrus and the aromatic airiness of fresh corriander… the meat is tender and marinaded and the urdall lentils are served still firm to provide a filling and multi-levelled meal (also above); Chicken Satkora – chicken (or lamb) cooked with the satkora fruit, traditionally grown in particular regions of Bangladesh, another aromatic and tangy taste that puts the lemon-lime citrus of the fruit to the fore, its sharpmness tempered by delicate spicing; the Shashlick is a Plate-Up ‘benchmark’ for Indian take aways and restaurants and this one certainly measures up, a perfectly cooked ‘kebab’ style skewer of chicken morsels, marinated in harmonious spices and grilled with onions and tomatoes, accomapnied by crisp salad and a mild masala to be added to taste.
The side dishes have also been good, with a perfect Bindi Bhaji – ‘green pea-pod’ freshness with great texture and no fibrous disappointment (above); Pakoras – chicken or vegetable are light enough to be starters and satisfying enough for a mini-meal for youngsters; the Nan breads are really good too – with the garlic one tasting as good as you may anticipate from its aroma… even the chips were very good.

Well, if reading these descriptions has whet your appetite, then all you have to do is get to Pwllheli and get your order (place one in advance on 01758 613712). Spice Fusion is open six evenings a week from 17:00 to 23:30 but closed on Tuesdays. It is part of the Gwynedd Spice Group which includes the Polash Bolti Restaurant, a few minutes walk away in Pwllheli town, so a good alternative on a Tuesday night or if you prefer dining out (28 Penlan Street, Pwllheli, Gwynedd, LL53 5DE. Telephone: 01758 613884) or if you are swayed by the endorsement of Ian Brown – yes Ian Brown of The Stone Roses.

Taste Garden

2010-05-20T15:08:00.000-07:00

28 High St, Blaenau Ffestiniog, Gwynedd, LL41 3AA

The Taste Garden has been serving reliable Chinese food consistently for around a decade (even longer before that under different management). The quality of the dishes is variable – as would be expected from the amount of choice on offer – from (mostly) acceptable to (some) really good, but always fair value. Order by phone on 01766 830347 and give them 20 minutes before collection. Fast and friendly! Recommended order: Hot & Sour Vegetarian Soup followed by Crispy Aromatic Duck – their ‘signature dish’. The hot and sour soup can be pretty spicy! It has always been very good and its characteristics vary slightly every time, so always interesting. The duck is offered in quarter, half, or full bird portions – shredded off for you (as above) – accompanied by fresh salad, julienned spring onions & cucumber and pancakes to roll it all up in (below)… The Hoi Sin sauce that comes with it has been ‘perfected’ over the years, becoming lighter and more aromatic with overtones of fivespice and a background of liquorice-toffee notes. Always a good dish that feels like a celebration - never been disappointed. The Szechuan-style Sweet & Sour Chicken is also a good, hearty alternative: chunks of chicken deep-fried in batter and accompanied by a very bright sauce that is usually more sour than sweet, providing a good edge to cut the heaviness of the batter (use moderately, or it will 'swamp' all other flavour). It will fill you up, as will their noodle-based dishes – the plain fried or prawn chow mein are good and can be a meal in themselves (the pork and chicken noodles tend to be rather highly salted). It is the Taste Garden’s ‘heavier’ dishes, with robust spicy, sharp or salty sauces that play to the chef’s strength (avoid the chips) and this harmonises well with Blaenau’s other Chinese take away, The Golden Mountain, further along the High Street, that favours the lighter Cantonese-style end of the market.

Mr Kong Restaurant

2010-04-10T18:05:00.000-07:00

Mr Kong, 21 Lisle Street, London WC1

Dining at Mr Kong’s is a great way to celebrate the Chinese new year if you happen to be in London. It can cheer up the dull days of winter, walking through the bright lights of Leicester Square into Chinatown where the red lanterns strung across the street sway bravely in the wind. There may be a short loiter outside Mr Kong’s if the queues are long but it is well worth it, and the atrium is quite a comfortable wait although looking through the window at other people enjoying delicious meals can be tantalising (in a good way).

Soon you are welcomed warmly and escorted through the busy restaurant to a suitable table. Then you can divest your winter clothes, stow any carrier bags under the table and feast your eyes on an extensive menu. The chef specials are always worth scrutiny, and range from rich hot pots to delicate stir fries. We always choose the iconic starters, steamed scallops in their shells with flash fried minced garlic and delicate glass noodles (below, left), accompanied by a soy sauce with finely sliced chilli and spring onion which is spooned over to taste. It was Mr Kong’s signature dish and is absolutely meltingly gorgeous every time – scallops may have a coral according to the season and dissolve with round almost sweet richness startled by the sharp stab of chilli.
For main course, another favourite is the sizzling garlicky king prawns (above, right) – makes a great entrance presented as described, sizzling loudly in a hot cast iron serving dish and the smell is divine. The prawns are perfectly flash cooked along with minced garlic and sweet onions – so simple and delicious (all Mr Kong’s seafood rocks). Other recent choices were duck with asparagus and melon and shitake – exquisite balance of flavours very light for a duck dish – and a richer duck with pineapple and slivers of stem ginger, gently spicy and warming on a cold evening. Pork with garlic sprouts is a robust quite salty dish (think bacon with delicious greens) which our five year old loved. We also ordered the sweet and sour pork, stir fried pork in quite a delicate sauce which was a good complement. With side orders of fluffy rice and fried noodles, and unlimited pots of tea, it was indeed a splendid feast to welcome in the year of the Tiger. We have upheld this tradition for about fifteen years and have never been let down by the quality of the food or service.

Looking forward to next time already!

More on Mr Kong's homepage with sample menus to make your mouth water....

We also managed to do some shopping at the See Woo Chinese supermarket right next door for some great, well priced supplies – the garlic is so fresh and superb for home stir fries. Root ginger and galangal, gunpowder tea and pots of thai fish and curry paste as well as soy sauce were also purchased for our store cupboard... and scrutinising the more exotic supplies on offer is always good inspiration.

The Plate Up Chicken Nugget Play-Off...

2010-04-09T05:02:00.000-07:00

Nuggets... y'know, for kids...Our five-year-old food critic gives her verdict on the best of five fast-food outlet chicken nugget meals...

A clear winner are 'Chicken Tenders' from Denny's Diners (sampled in and around Orlando, Florida), served with 'High Diving Vegetables' and choice of dips. Agreed, they were freshly cooked, tender, flavoursome, with a mild but sophisticated mix of herbs and spices flavouring the coating that was dry and crisp enough, without being hard, chewy or oil-logged... and accompanied with healthy fresh cut vegetable sticks. Also exceptional value.

Highly commended runners-up, KFC (Kentucky Fried Chicken) present light, bite-sized nuggets they call 'Popcorn Chicken' and are a firm favoutrite (sampled in Llandudno, Bangor, Chester, Southport, London, and some motorway service stations). Perhaps a bit spicier than would be expected to please a young palate, and so popular with older children and adults too. They have never failed to satisfy, with the possible exception of the Southport branch where they were "too peppery".

McDonald's, supposedly classic, dipping 'Chicken Nuggets' got the thumbs down (sampled in London and a few motorway service stations) - the verdict was "rubbish" with "yucky sauce". Perhaps we've been unlucky, but these processed pieces have always been a disappointment with a soggy coating that has more flavour than the textured lump it surrounds... unfortunately that flavour has been mainly the frying oil and little else. The dipping sauces (Tomato and BBQ) bravely attempt to rescue the taste experience, but tend to taste like they have come out of little plastic containers, which, of course, they have... The 'Filet-O-Fish' fared much better when sampled in a few branches in France...

The 'Chicken Nuggets Kids Deal' from Blaenau Take Away are consistently good and well received. They have, on occassion, been proclaimed "better than Denny's", so have become a savoured treat, and always satisfy with their combo of excellent chips, a choice of sauce and a drink.

Burger King is a good all-rounder and their 'Spicy Bean Burger' is probably the best vegetarion choice on offer from any of the major fast food vendors. So, not surprisingly their 'Chicken Nuggets' do the job and are always enjoyed. They are, in fact, "tasty"...

St Dalfour Jams

2010-03-12T16:46:00.000-08:00

Jam fine - no added sugar!

These jams are made to a traditional French recipe using grape juice rather than sugar and therefore have a high fruit content and avoid excessive sugar crash. They are a healthy choice for diabetics and those on low GI diet. They are also very tasty. Our five year old loves them on fresh bread with peanut butter! Good topping to soft cheese spread on oatcake, too - instant bite-sized low GI cheescake! Flavours range is extensive and our favourites include blackcurrant, raspberry and pomegranate, and their classic Fig Royale. They are such good quality they can be used as a jus for deserts, for a Victoria sandwich filling or for marzipanning cakes, porridge toppings, etc.

Check out their website.

Q: How did Bob Marley like his doughnuts?
A: With jam in... with jam in...

Y Castell Deudraeth

2010-03-03T14:53:00.000-08:00

Reservations? Not always the right sort…

Castell Deudraeth
Portmeirion Village, Penryndaedreuth, Gwynedd

Castell Deudraeth (pronounced 'Die drath') can be very good indeed – it depends what you are looking for, or expecting… There are a couple of points in this review that might sound a little damning, but do not let this put you off! Perhaps we should just get them out of the way, talk plain and say it how it is, or how it has been on occasion: OK, the scenario is as follows. Booking for a double 40th birthday, a table for two couples and two babies (one for each couple), booking made at reception desk in Y Castell, with babies in plain sight, pointed out that the booking would be for four, plus ‘these two babies, who will probably be asleep the whole time,’ babies displayed to the reservations clerk. Booking made for table, at eight, in two days time. Fine, looking forward to it.

On the night, a rather grumpy Maitre D makes much fuss about the children being so small and unable to use the highchairs and having to reassign the tables to accommodate the infants so they won’t have to be placed on the floor in walk-ways and risk getting trodden on, or having hot stuff spilled on them.

OK, that’s sorted… Now, we order and chat and get excited as the food arrives and then a little dissappointed that the vegitarian in the party has been served the wrong dish, with meat content. This is drawn to the attention of the waiters, who kindly explain that there is no time to prepare the dish that was ordered and suggest a vegeterian pasta dish. Fine. Food good. Tasty. On to dessert and we all go for the icecream. But when the icecream arrives, one of the plates is missing a vital component – the icecream itself. Nice trimmings and presentation, but no actual icecream. This is soon rectified. In general, a good time was had by all, though I would have expected some recompense, such as an offer of complimentary coffee, or not including the substituted pasta dish on the bill, or even a simlpe, ‘Sorry, hope to see you again.’

Oh, well. Perhaps it is the association of Y Castell with Portmeirion and the excellent Hotel that led to certain expectations, like a warm Welsh welcome, or a welcome of some sort…

Having said that, the food is a robust balance of classic and modern with big flavours and good, bold presentation and in general the table service is friendly and relaxed. The menu has a good range of choices and prices, making it a good venue for large, mixed groups. Much of the vegetables are grown on the estate and what is not 'home grown' is locally sourced if possible. The interior is a beautiful modern take on plush 1930s style. The exterior is Victorian Gothick and the restored walled gardens are lovely for an after dinner stroll, with a large lawn area for kids to trot about on. The private terrace is perfect for gin and tonics on a mid-summer’s eve. It’s well worth looking out for the off-peak lunch offers which are great deals such as two courses and wine for £15 - £20… (The pan-fried sea bass was a winner!) The best advice is to approach it as a country bar and grill and not place it in the same mental bracket as the Hotel Portmeirion.

Castell Deudraeth (pronounced 'Die drath') has things right in style, décor and menu… the waiters are friendly and attentive, so when they sort out the attitude of the supervising staff – and learn the skill of hospitality – it will be a wonderful place. Hopefully this is now being addressed under its new (as of 2008) manager, Dylan Thomas, who has transferred from Hotel Portmeirion. Watch this space… or check out their website.

2009 Highlights: Masterchef Live

2010-02-10T04:07:00.000-08:00

The major foodie event for the Plate Up crew was Masterchef Live at Olympia in London (13-15 November). We had already experienced the Good Food Show at the same venue the year before, so were expecting something along similar lines with this re-branded ‘sequel’. The 2008 show had been great fun and a really good family day out and 2009’s event lived up to expectations.

It’s too big to look around it all in just one day, but you can get a lot done! We focussed on the main floor, centred by the ‘Restaurant Experience’ area – this is a designated square in the centre of the huge exhibition space bordered by market style vending stalls that represent some high quality chefs and restaurants, all serving samplers of their signature dishes from menus limited to around ten choices (or less). We arrived late morning and thought it was time to start lunch, so we headed straight to this central arena and spent our tokens on a variety of cuisines: asian fusion, oriental, traditional roast and other quality British and international style foods.

The food was all good, the stand-out dishes were the smoked haddock chowder (above, top) from Urban Caprice, and the spicy Indian-style dishes from Café Spice Namaste (Goan Prawn Pulao Curry, above mid and Bhael Puri, above). Roast To Go was also very satisfying, though their famous crackling was a bit on the too chewy side (below).

The other downside of the Restaurant experience was the lack of seating, people were sitting on the floor and tripping up diners carrying their samples – surely not a good health-and-safety scenario. There was a VIP dining area, that you could have paid extra for access too, but with the price of the tickets… and the food tokens… and the sampling glass… you would, sort of, expect somewhere to sit! There was the same problem the previous year, so the organisers obviously had not learnt from experience (attention BBC: perhaps more attention to event design would be good as 2009’s event was notably more chaotic and confusing than 2008’s, rather than smoother). In retrospect, one of those lightweight folding chairs that fishermen use would have been a good idea.

The next circle of stalls was mainly the wine vendors and drinks distributors. Only a few were ‘snobby and stand-offish’, and these were not getting much interest from the punters… the rest were lively, friendly and generous with their samples. There were some excellent wines and spirits being promoted, but the most consistently impressive stall in this category has to be the ‘Wines Of Chile’, which were all very good and some were excellent indeed!

In the next circle were other fine food traders demonstrating and selling various products including coffee, pickles, jams, knives, halogen cookers, food magazines, olives, and such. The ‘Flavours of Japan’ speciality stand was particularly interesting with free samples of interesting food and drink - sake and calpis tastings… Calpis? Yes, and it tastes a lot better than it sounds, it’s basically a fermented milk drink, a kind of healthy drinking yogurt that has a very distinctive fresh, almost fruity taste. The stall itself was a feast for the eye with multicoloured packaging with strange graphics ranging from the minimal zen typographic to the big-eyed and gaudy what-is-that-creature brand ‘mascots’. (After closure of the main arena on Saturday evening, the Japanese theme was carried over into a special event, the ‘Eat-Japan Sushi Awards’.) Union Hand Roasted were serving a good range of their good quality coffee to help counter the effects of the wine and spirits tastings - we came away with bags of their organic Sumatran…

The bulk of the traders were on the gallery floor, but there was not enough time left to thoroughly enjoy them and we only managed a brisk walk about as they were packing up their wares. There were specialist cheesemakers, preserves and pickles, pastries and cakes, sauces, mushroom specialists, chilli dealers, a few gadget and appliance pushers, organic veg sellers, cordials, teas and coffees.

http://www.londonbbcgoodfoodshow.com/home

The Plate Up Chilli Sauce Play-Off - Round 1

2009-12-02T14:36:00.000-08:00

Crazy Charley’s Jalapeno Heaven
“Actually, he’s not so crazy…”
Fruity. Taste the Worcestershire sauce. Is this a ketchup? Oh, wait a minute, here comes the heat – oh, yeah we have a chilli fire… this is a versatile sauce that could be used when a spicy brown sauce just doesn’t quite cut it. It says clearly on the label that this is a ‘pouring sauce’ and it sits comfortably on the table as a condiment. Fiery yet fruity enough to eat straight off the spoon. Would have its use as a marinade too… a good all-rounder for a spicy sauce and mild enough for those not used to the chilli heavyweights...

Encona West Indian Hot Pepper Sauce
“The lure of the tropics”
It’s a classic. Salt-sharp-fruit… then FIRE! Ok, this is the granddaddy… er, grandmother… Ok, this is the grandparents of Caribbean pepper sauces and, although West Indians cheerfully dollop it on sandwiches as if it’s ketchup, this is for the serious chilli lover. It is a no-holds-barred celebration of two of the finest varieties of chilli out there: the heroic Habanero and the fearsome Scotch Bonnet. Sampled neat, you really appreciate the craftship in the recipe. The flavours are balanced and present themselves distinctly, but the fire burns on for a lingering finish of many minutes. This luscious red-and-yellow flecked deep orange potion will raise your pain threshold. For what it is, it is unrivalled. As it says on the label, “a true taste of the tropics”. Wow.

Lingham’s Thai Chilli Sauce
“freng-freng”
Lingham’s make what is probably the best all-round sweet chilli sauce (I am certain it will feature in a future round of the Plate Up Play Offs), so great things were expected of this Thai variation. Maybe not what was expected, but no disappointment here. Edible by the spoonful – so milder than one might expect from a Thai cuisine condiment – but full of interesting flavour. Not just relying on chilli heat, the garlic is also very prominent and the chilli element has a broad pallet from heat-of-seed to the distinctive Thai dry-preserved chilli complexity. The familiar yellow and red label does build certain expectations and you cannot help comparing this to their sweet chilli sauce, which is superior, but it too has a place as a table sauce (also great on chips) and as a component, ingredient or marinade – It is both versatile and distinctive.

Tabasco Chipotle
“Where there’s smoke…”
Right up front with confidence, there is the chipotle: smokey, aromatic, with an equally assured chilli smoulder that builds until it sets the lips a-tingle. McIlhenny Co know their chilli sauces! Tabasco® is a household name, in Cajun houses. So, it’s no surprise this chipotle delivers more than it has to. It’s not all fireworks, the distinctive flavours from the peppers are layered and showcased by a fine balance of garlic & spices with a piquant cut of vinegar. The distinctive flavour of chipotle peppers – good ones – is intricate, fruity, with lingering smoke and fire… even as dried flakes they can really transform a chilli-based dish, so with quality ingredients, skilled fermentation, maturation and blending, this sauce is something spectacular… and versatile. A true taste experience, distinctive and possibly addictive – if the fire didn’t stop you, you’d drink it by the bottle!

AND THE WINNER IS…

Well its should be Encona, it is certainly champion quality, but for this match… Tabasco Chipotle has a clear lead… it could well be the best chilli sauce you can buy in a bottle!

Websites: Tabasco , Encona , Lingham's , Crazy Charley products at Salsa Express

Christmas Boar...

2009-12-01T15:03:00.000-08:00

...No, not cousin Eustace and his knitwear eulogy…

Wild boar... and more! In Manchester!

Manchester again hosts the annual (and hopefully to become ‘traditional’) Christmas Market - in the square just in front of the famous Town Hall (found off Lloyd Street and not so far from Deansgate, the Central Convention Centre, Art Gallery and Evening News Arena).

It is not massive, but it is festive and there is some lovely food on offer, much of which can be consumed then and there, either at café style table areas or ‘on the hoof’ whilst browsing the fare… Right in the middle is the main attraction: the big German sausage char-grill with its no-nonsense choice of ‘not spicy’ or ‘spicy’ wursts, served on a bun that is too small for them and is only really there as a ‘handle’ and something to contain the mustard. Highly recommended as a satisfying lunch… And while you devour/savour your sausage, have a good look around at what is an interesting mix of continental and British Xmas confusion.

There are stalls offering a variety of items such as soap, Dutch blue & white china decorations, gourmet mustards, bonsai trees, clocks, cheeses, specialist fudge, cured meats, pancakes, waffles, beer, cosmetics, olives, smoked giant garlic… There is a vaguely German theme throughout, but Holland and Switzerland are also in evidence, as well as the Lake District. That makes it sound bigger than it actually is... (perhaps I was 'spoiled' by 'Masterchef Live' at London's Olympia a couple of weeks ago? Well, when you are walking around an open air market on a cold crisp winter afternoon, those bratwursts in buns could hold their own against anything from the big show's dining experience) ...but you could still spend a couple of hours and a lot of money if you wanted to, especially if you sit down to sample the range of German Ales from the ‘canteen’ – or you could just whizz around the place (whilst eating your big German sausage) and buy a cured wild boar peppered ham for a special Yuletide treat, and then make your get away.

This compact and lively market usually coincides with another seemingly annual Town Hall event, the ‘Dazzle’ exhibition of contemporary jewellery, which is also worth some time and attention if you are at all interested in fashion, craft and small things of elegance and beauty.

Kebab!

2009-08-16T18:31:00.000-07:00

Blaenau Take Away
5 Church Street, Blaenau Ffestiniog, Gwynedd

Suggested order: Large Chicken Kebab with garlic sauce and a little chilli sauce, salad with lemon juice, Chips. The chicken is tender and tasty and char-grilled to perfection (for me that means a bit dry on the outside with the beginnings of a singe, whilst remaining succulent on the inside) and the meat content of their kebabs is generous. The chilli sauce is a well-balanced fiery potion with a tangy fresh chilli edge countered with just the right amount of sweet and sour, but certainly not for the feint hearted – unless you like it really hot, remember to specify, “just a little bit of chilli sauce”, and cool it down a bit with their mild, creamy and delicious garlic sauce. If you are one of those people who sometimes just get the kebab urge, then this will hit the spot! The best around! Order by phone (01766 832 445) and pick up about ten minutes later. They also serve the usual variety of kebabs, pizzas, chicken’n’chips, burgers, and a small selection of other sundries and specials. Hours of business are noon-till-midnight everyday!

(Footnote: The only kebabs I know to rival these could once be found on Acton High Street, West London, from a take away by the park that was open all hours and a firm favourite with cabbies – last I heard the German chef-proprietor was shutting up shop and moving to Australia where he planned to open a beach grill…)

Portmeirion

2009-08-16T18:12:00.000-07:00

Portmeirion Hotel
Penryndaedreuth, Gwynedd

Dinner at the Hotel Portmeirion is a treat worth booking in advance (01766 772440). The view across the Estuary while you dine in stylish yet relaxed surroundings is wonderful in any weather and if the weather is fine you can conclude the meal with coffee on the terrace. The a la carte menu showcases seasonal Welsh produce in a range of contemporary dishes with healthy portions and includes a vegetarian option. Service is proper yet friendly, just how you want a good country hotel to be (evening meal is a more formal affair and pre-booking is always advised). For example you are not too embarrassed when the waiter spots you furtively waving a lobster claw to amuse your dining partner… The price of the Lunch includes admission to the village for the rest of the day (closing time in summer months is 7.30pm) so you can stroll the gardens, coastal paths and the architectural treats at your leisure. Recently they have introduced a 'Pub Lunch' style menu and this is often available without prior booking.

The Portmeirion Website

Some meals we have enjoyed at Portmeirion:

Roast beef – a cylinder of perfectly cooked beef sat on a disc of Yorkshire pudding with a matching disc of frois gras on top capped with a shaving of black truffle. The best piece of beef I’ve eaten. This was before BSE, and our impressive introduction to the cuisine at Hotel Portmeirion.

Roast venison – tender, medium rare, sliced, marinated and served in a ginger wine sauce. Wild venison delivers what you’d expect from best steak with a more reliable texture and depth of flavour – the perfect alternative in the days after BSE…

Lobster – a large perfectly cooked, succulent lobster dressed with basil oil and garnished with salmon caviar. Delicious.

Tranche of salmon – again a generous cut, perfectly cooked with a range of pink from delicate to deep, crispy singed skin to hold it together and add to the flavour and texture, served on a bed of vegetable ‘noodles’ (long thin juliennes of steamed courgette, carrot and herbs)

Wood pigeon – smoked and served on a bed of crisp green salad, tender and rich in both texture and flavour.

An outstanding and memorable desert was fresh steamed figs set in a circle around a sphere of deliciate (that’s both delicious and delicate) elderflower sorbet on a base of a vanilla ‘custard’. The best dessert I can remember, although their bara brith bread and butter pudding is also impressive…

It seems most appropriate that the first entry on the Plate Up blog is the Hotel Portmeirion for a number of reasons: Firstly, it is good and sets a high benchmark for all Welsh cuisine venues (it has been high up in various polls and charts over the years and has rated top 50 in the UK); it delivers top quality ‘London standard’ menu at about half the price it would cost in a big city; it is versatile and maintains a balance between relaxed and ‘posh’ so that it always seems special but not intimidating; we have been dining there for more than a decade and it has never disappointed; it is in Portmeirion Village as seen in:
The Prisoner, Doctor Who: The Masque Of Mandragora, Under Suspicion, Captain Adorable, and music videos for Supergrass and Jane Oliver...

The Straight Up Guide To Food In North Wales

2009-05-01T07:12:00.000-07:00

Reviews ... Recipes ... Recommendations

All about food and eating and drinking

Places ... Suppliers ... Cafes ... Restaurants ... Hotels ... Diners ... Delis

You and your kitchen

Gadgets ... Cook Books ... Pots and Pans ... lots and lots ...

That's what Plate Up is all about!